Oh no, not another 17 HMR thread. Yes, I got another one. My old dealer, who may be going out of busness soon, found me one for a fair price ($458.99). He got the wrong scope and wrong mounts, so I had to get those elsewhere. So far, the Marlin out shoots it, but the rifle is still new. I put a Weaver 6-24x42 Varmint scope on it with Leupold steel 11mm rings. It has semi-target turrets with 1/8 moa click adjustments and adjustable objective lens from 20' to infinity. The barrel is not free-floated like the Marlin. It doesn't seem to be quite as accurate, but time will tell. I did get one 1.5" 5-shot group at 100 meters this afternoon, but I have .22s that can do that on a still day. But today was breezy.





The rifle has a good feel and I think with some work it can be a good varmint gun. I can't wait to zoom in on a squirrel with the big 24x scope. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Boy, I hope I can find a 452 varmint version here. The non-varmint version was going for $399 at a local shop.

I love the way that rifle looks with that big 6x-24x scope on it. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

Yeah, the local "experts" used to kid me about putting a humongous scope on a squirrel gun. But it works. If I was shooting at BIG things with a BIG rifle at close range, a compact 1.5x-4.5x x 32 or so would be fine. But if I'm going for head shots on tree rats at 50 to 75 yards, I want at least 12x.

I agree 100%! The benchrest rifle guys use 8-32x or 12-42x scopes.

Neat rifle...

Thanks. Now if I can only get it to shoot as good as it looks. I have some 20 gr hollow points I may try in it next. You never know which round a rimfire rifle will shoot tight groups with unless you try a bunch of them. I know the Marlin shoots the 17 gr Hornaday V-Max pretty well.

Vic, that looks a lovely rifle! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> I especially like the scope choice and agree whole heartedly with your choice. The 1/8th clicks will be a perfect compliment to such a small calibre....and will offer maximum precision.

If the rifle is'nt free floating on the barrel I would pop it out of the stock and sand down the contour for the barrel just to give it that little bit of clearance. I use a round bit of pipe at the relevant guage to match the barrel dimension as a block for the sand paper and just take a bit off on some of my stocks if the barrel seems to catch. That should alleviate any problems there! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

If the wood is touching it will affect the rifle's ability to group tightly.

Maybe that friend of yours could look at it...I would be suprised if it is intended to "not be free floating"....especially on a varmint barrel version. Can you slip a dollar bill under the barrel and move it up to the action between the stock? If it is catching then it just needs a bit of work done.

This problem happened to me when I re-barrelled a Tikka....a bit of sanding cured it in no time.

Lovely rifle though....reminds me of the .22 Sako Varmint I had...my set up was virtually the same as you have...Sako steel mounts and rings and a 4-16 x 50 scope. I certainly wish I had never sold it!!

Good shooting Vic... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

Yes the barrel is "almost" free floated, but the stock touches on the barrel in several places. Now that I know how a 17 HMR is supposed to shoot, I am not pleased with the accuracy. The Marlin will out shoot it easily. Free floating the barrel and ligtening the trigger pull will help. The screws that hold the action in the stock have very then shallow slots and not one of my screwdrivers will fit them well enough to break them loose. They are super tight. I will give my old gunsmith buddy a call today. He is a silhouette shooter and knows how to do all the tricks to a CZ to make it a tack driver.

wah very nice small game gun vic!! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

Good luck dialing that puppy in. How are ammo prices and availability for 17HMR in your area? Last time I checked prices were about .5 cents a round for quality ammo.

Sure looks like a shooter....Good luck with it. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

It sounds like they have used some "screw tight" or similar epoxy on the action screws....I have had some rifles like that...you need to apply heat to the screw to melt the glue...rather this than strip the screw thread...I use an old iron with the rifle turned upside down in a cradle like I have seen in your photo's...use a bit of metal to interface with the base of the iron and the screw to transfer "heat" into the screw...from your post it seems like they have a "bespoke" screw head as well...usually these screws are "allen key" jobs because they need to be "torqued up" at identical settings ( ideally that is...but often as not it does'nt matter )...I have a very useful torque wrench done by Anzsutch (sp?)for action screws...it can take various different allen key type attachments...they are worth getting if you have a lot of rifles and I expect your guy has one too.

However from your post I cannot tell if these screws are standard or a bespoke type but I would not try to loosen them without the proper bayonet fitting. If you post a pic of the screws I can tell you.

While he has the action out I would have a look at the trigger as well and get that set the way you like it.

All rifles have some teething problems Vic...I am sure it will be tack driving in no time... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

Edited to add....Vic, if your chap has a bore scope use it to check the barrel out...on factory rifles there can be all manner of "gunk" in the barrel for shipping etc...sometimes they need a total clean and de-greasing...then I usually like to apply a little moly paste to a patch and moly the barrel a little then dry it out using other dry patches...even if shooting copper bullets...or lead...it seems to allow the barrel to settle better...I use Frankford Arsenal Bore Moly...you need a few shots to let the bore settle...then it seems to smooth out to nice low extreme spreads when chrono'ing the rounds for group development. Good Luck <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crossfingers.gif" alt="" />