Hey you belt sander guru's...I have a question. I am getting ready to attempt to reprofile my SOD a bit. The blade is pretty sharp, but it is obviously very thick near the edge. I want to thin this area out a bit and then get her really sharp. I am afraid I will plug up my Lee Valley belts imediately with the blade coating. How do you guys change the edge and sharpen your new coated blades?

Thanks for the help fellas.

Use a course grit to set the new angle. I like 80 or even 60 grit for this. A cheap belt or a nice Blue Zirconia will work. As soon as the two new angles meet, you'll get a wire edge. Then change belts to maybe the 80 micron (about 180 grit I think) for a few passes to remove the burr and smooth out the rough grind marks of the 80 grit. Then go down to 40 micron or 20 micron until the edge is smooth and sharp. Then go down to a 15 micron for a few passes. Finish polishing with a 9 micron. Others have their own methods and favorites, but that is how I do it.

hmm... I'm going to have get a belt sander.

I'm no guru, but I wouldn't worry about the coating clogging the belts any more then the steel, at least I don't. If you are really concerned about it, pick up some a rubber belt cleaner: http://popsupply.bizhosting.com/rubber_belt_cleaners.html

Thanks a ton fellas! I will use your method Horndog...and hopefully I get at least half as good results as you do. I am glad to hear I have no fear clogging up the belt, I started by hand using a diamond sharpener, and it seemed to fill that sucker up with black coating pretty directly. Boy the belt sander will be so much nicer, I will just start like Vic said and use one of the cheaper 80 grits to get a good start.

Thanks as always!

It is best to practice on some cheap machetes first. An 80 grit belt on a sander removes steel fast, but it does it much cooler than using a fine grit. Don't do the SOD until you have mastered the technique of not grinding off the point. Good luck. A few basic pointers:

1 Try to keep the belt perpendicular to the edge.

2 Try to maintain the same angle all the way down the blade including the belly toward the point. Keep it moving in one long fluid motion.

3 Do not drag the point across the belt. Remove the blade from the belt when the point reaches the outside edge of the belt.

4 Practice this technique with the sander off to be sure you have it down.

Very good points HD! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> I have a question regarding sharpening on a belt sander -
Do you always have to re-profile a knife edge to sharpen on a belt sander? Can you resharpen non-convex edges without making them convex using the belt sander? Just curious..Thanks.

No, you can stay with the same edge angle and just use a fine belt or even a leather one with compound to sharpen it.



Yes, although most final edges are slightly convex anyway since they are done on a slack belt by hand. For a true flat bevel edge, use the platen. It's that steel plate behind the belt.

Cool- Thanks for the response. I have a lot to practice. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

[censored], I need a belt sander too? This forum is getting expensive...

:writes down belt sander on list:

<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

That was the hardest thing for me to get the hang of! On very thin kitchen knives it can still be tricky.

I've never used my belt sander to do a flat grind.


The thought of trying to polish up a finer edge on my scandi ground blades makes me nervous.