I had a Koster Muk in .25" 3v and it was a chunk, the weight didn't bother me much.
I don't always mind chunky knives. But, I don't generally prefer them unless I want to bash stuff with the knife. Thinner is just more nimble and tends to cut a bit better. With a good convex edge, a thick knife "Can" cut fine, but starts to not be as good if cutting deeper.
As far as weight preferences though, I do try to keep in mind that everybody has a right to their own opinion. To each their own and so on.
The cutting edge was right there by your finger kinda like on the SAR 5s and it looked like an accident waiting to happen.
I am not familiar with which Koster you refer, but in regards to the SAR5, the integral guard effectively created by the blade is "AS Large" and effective at preventing my finger from sliding over the blade almost as well as most guards on knives of similar size.
But, I am used to using knives without guards and with much less guard than the SAR5. One of my favorite smaller knives is my Canadian Special. I also like the Aurora and many similar knives without any guard. It works for me. And I just know what I can and can't do.
But, I can appreciate where some people might feel they need a gaurd.
Personally, I like a little point for my cleaning duties, too much is bad though.
I agree. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> But, for skinning, processing, cleaning and similar, I often find that a high point is about as good as a lower point for those tasks.
I like the Seigle, SAR4 and HG55 handles styles because the work for any hand size. A finger groove or pomel in the wrong place is a pain.
I agree. I feel similar about thumb ramps, thumb recesses and similar. Sometimes they work, but usually at a cost of not being universal for a larger number of people. And tend to restrict hand movement for various holds. So, while I "sometimes" like a given finger groove, recess, or similar (Canadian Special is a good example), I often just like simple for versatility even for my own hands. As is, the Canadian Special works even if I move my hand around a lot. The grooves on it are not sufficient to prevent hand movement, but do offer good control.
The Seigle has a index finger groove. I don't know how it is. I haven't handled. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
Handle sticking out the back still works if its shaped right.
To a point. But, it depends on how much. I am a stickler for details on many things including knives - obviously.
I have much more issue with things that detract from function. Too much pommel is more of a balance issue, too much length, too much weight. All reasonably minor. But, if it serves no value, I would rather not have it in use or when carrying around. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbdn.gif" alt="" />
I can honestly say the SAR5 has too much pommel hanging out IMO. It weights the handle too much IMO. I have a plan in mind for mine. I can fix it.
The SAR4 EASILY looks to have more handle than I prefer.
The RMD has a great handle size. But, I wish they had put the lanyard hole at the back/bottom rather than the back top of the handle. I can't figure that out for the life of me. My only speculation is that Jerry didn't want the RMD to be "TOO" good as to outshine his Flagship Busse-INFI line. But, lanyard hole isn't a big deal either - for me. It still works. And for me, the RMD EASILY outshines most of the Busse-INFI line.... Until he releases something without that sharpening choil. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbdn.gif" alt="" /> ... For me, the SHBA without choil and with skeletonized tang would be VERY close to the RMD in value to me. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crossfingers.gif" alt="" />
To each their own again. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />
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