For those who are considering improving their skills with sharpening and being able to mod knives here is a photo of the set up I use...
![[Linked Image from i343.photobucket.com]](http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o445/SteelFan-Infi/P1000836.jpg)
The S5LE had the ramp removed by using the disc grinder on the side and holding the knife to the disc...working free hand you need to line up the contact area carefully and use the handle as best you can to lay the knife flat so that the blade spine makes a proper 90 degree contact...getting that right is definately the hard part...I keep my head very still and look over the top of the job...work off muscle memory and use the beginning of the grinding of the ramp to check the angle of approach as you need to pull the knife away and cool it in water and dry it off so that the heat in the blade is kept to a minimum.
Essentially you do it in stages and the trickiest part is as the ramp is removed and you need to blend in the grind to the spine...definately work in brief "touches" then and remember that the final clearing of the grind marks will be done with wet and dry paper using a sanding block...
The knives in the picture are the S5LE and a large refurb task I did on a SJTAC Variant which I posted about on the Busse B/F site. The edge on this SJTAC is the best I have done to-date...save for the easier task of thinning some of the factory convex blades Busse have done such as the SAR4 LE, the NMFBM and the KZ which come very well profiled to begin with and thinning the edge down gives an awesome edge...but the flat thin grind of the SJTAC was more of a challenge and to ensure I did'nt remove to much metal I set up the platten on the belt sander and glued some thick sheath hide leather to the platten so that I could get a smooth contact with the belt and the side of the blade to remove the Infi dimples and grind marks when I stripped it. Holding the knife spine slightly away from the belt and using standard strokes I was able to convex the edge to a very effective Hamaguru-ba shape similar to that on my Hattori Cowry X knife which has the best cutting ability of all my knives...it was made by Hattori himself and the 60 years experience shows in the blade profile...it is very effective on cutting and worth using as a "template"...I cut a section of plasticine to show the edge profile side on and tried to replicate this on the Busse...using side by side cuts till the matched the shape.
Here is a close up of the "platten" set up...
![[Linked Image from i343.photobucket.com]](http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o445/SteelFan-Infi/P1000837.jpg)
and here is a pic of the Busse showing the graduated edge I gave it so that strength in the tip was not dimished but the edge near the handle where most fine cutting is done is maximised for such tasks...
![[Linked Image from i343.photobucket.com]](http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o445/SteelFan-Infi/P1000827.jpg)