I plan on using my Rat Man Du with a Swamp Warden Piggybacked for my Archery Bull Elk hunt this year. I'm concerned about blood soaking into the canvas. Has anybody had any success sealing thier canvas. The tan is a little lighter than I expected so I'm thinking maybe coloring the grooves with permanent green sharpie <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" /> and a coating with liquid silicone.I think it will difuse the green a bit and seal. Am I nuts or has anybody else uglied up a perfectly good knife?

its your knife, do as you wish. if it gets dirty and you dont like it, soap and water will wash it right up

If you use some shoe polish it darkens things up and adds some waterproofing.

I like the sound of sealing it but don't know how well it would work. Mine has got a little darker after using an oily/soot covered rag. Not so light in color now.

I dyed the tan canvas handles on my HRLM and RMD red and sealed them with minwax spray laquer. they seem to be holding up pretty well.

Sno-Seal or Atom Wax should do pretty good. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

I've never really had the urge to try them, but I have an ASH-1 with wax sealed handles, they still look pretty new and shiny.

The green stripes sound good,pics when its done please

+1

Shoepolish is stain plus wax.

I have used brown shoe polish on tan micarta and personally I liked the darker results.

Here is tan micarta darkened with brown shoe polish:




The end result is deeper and darker which I prefer.

You have to work the polish into the small tight areas around the tang and hollow tubes. An old toothbrush works fine. Then buff off..... I missed a spot of polish in one of the tubes. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />

The shoe polish I used left a tacky wax feel. More buffing and maybe followed by Ren-Wax might finish with a bit nicer feel. Ren-Wax doesn't feel tacky when dry.

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A natural wax buffed in would be best... Don't forget the shoe polish also contains, turpentine and naphtha.....adding a natural solvent to a resin and fabric based material isn't high on my list....

melt beeswax, dip the handle in, let soak for a bit, remove, wipe excess hot beeswax off.

grippy. Waterproof, blood proof, and can be undone with a hairdryer and a rag.

I'm one of those people that causes high-grade stainless to rust by looking at it...so my knives are always coated in a heavy dose of LSA.

LSA ended up on my tan canvas RMD handle, and caused it to darken a lot. A few days later it apparently absorbed or evaporated the "Weapons Oil, Medium" because the handle was light again <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />

What about "Mink Oil" or "Saddle Soap"?