Finally sprung for a strop...finally! Got the black and green compound and went at a few blades. Overall, it's great! Brought back my Sage II nicely and my Howling Rat and S5 took wicked edges quickly. The WD is coming along nicely- figure that one will take more time.

My Bark River Gunny I couldn't do a thing with...go figure- thought strops were made for convex edges!? I think I dulled it actually...had it sharpening and finished it duller! I did well with my little Koyote convex...put a nasty edge on that...although that grind is very, very different...

Suggestions on using it? Any trouble spots on the blade? Towards the choil maybe? Tips on managing the weak side? Hows about a position? Had it flat, sat on the floor and had it at a 45 degree angle...both felt fine...

Thoughts and tips are very, very welcome!

Sounds like your rounding off the edges by using too much pressure. It takes super light pressure, only the weight of the blade, to sharpen a convex blade. Now FYI I am no expert, I have my first true convex blades in the mail (Bravo-1 and Gunny) but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn last night..............and watched tons of sharpening videos on Youtube <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Seriously, from what I have seen, just lift the spine ever so slightly until the edge just touches the strop and then use the weight of the blade to strop.

When you say you held it flat and then at a 45* angle, do you mean the blade? It should be more like a 10*-15* angle you hold the blade at. I suggest watching some videos on Youtube.

Take a look at the two short videos at the end of this page. Both helped me understand the angle aspect of convex edge and sharpening.
http://www.knivesshipfree.com/pages/Sharpening-Videos

Thanks guys!

I was holding the strop flat and at a 45 degree angle, not the knife...

Weird to me how I could do so well with some knives and do so badly with the Gunny!

The videos and tips helped some, have the gunny a bit better. Thanks guys! I know I'm all thumbs and new to stroping, but dang...these convex edges seem a little finicky to me! I'll keep at it. My other blades are taking a great edge! Worked on the WD more and it's getting nasty sharp!

RN, convex are supposed to be the BOSS. But I don't have the materials to do one so I just use my course diamond hone, course DMT ceramic and finish on a find DMT and buff on a cardboard notepad backing.

Yeah SUPPOSED to be! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> hah! I know I am the one with the problem..but...as I've used the Gunny and did a couple comparisons, I did find it dulling a lot quicker than my other blades. I've wondered if that's the grind or the steel... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

My only other convex, the Koyote EDC just has a different grind. The day I got it I noticed that it didn't cut paper well but ate through wood like nobodys business! But, I still find that easier to manage on the strop.

I've only had the strop for 2-3 days...should just keep on it for a few weeks and develop some skills! Worst comes to worse, the Gunny is a step down from my other blades in that size and can always go bye-bye!

Stropping is nothing more than sharpening on a very fine scale. You can't expect a strop to be any better for a convex than it is for a straight edge too. If your edge is used and you consider it dull then a 50,000 grit strop is probably not the best starting point.


Many hold the factory edge on a high pedestal and many have sharpening problems because of it. The factory grind is a crude way of getting a sharp (if your lucky) edge in minimal time. Good for the factory but not good for the misinformed user.

You will probably need to start at 320 to correct the dulling and factory grind. This is also a good time to make your edge more durable by increasing your sharpening angle.

Pressure is the main thing in stropping and convex sharpening, with convex though its the pressure that makes the shape. The amount of pressure used usually needs to be more than what most say, too light and you create a edge that no longer has a shoulder but is paper thin at the edge. Too much pressure at the wrong angle and you'll continually be grind off the edge you are trying to make. You must balance the pressure with the thickness and abilities of the steel/knife.

For effective use of your compounds first finish your edge to 2k grit, followed by black then green compound. If done correctly you will have a mirror finish and a razor sharp edge.

Too get the belly and tip raise the handle slightly and decrease pressure. This will allow you to in a single pass evenly sharpen the whole edge. The decrease of pressure is needed because you are reducing surface area contact and increasing pressure on a smaller point. If you were to keep the same pressure you would increase bevel height and angle through this area.

Thanks for the info knifenut. I got the gunny used and it came from the BRKT spa and was scary sharp. I figure Vickmacky is right b/c I'll have the edge sharpening up, work on it more and then it's duller.

Tried sharpening a scandivex last night too with so-so results- then did my RC-3 and got that scary sharp. Live and learn! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Rn, for you to keep in the back of your mind, I have had knives with such a poor heat treat (yes that was the problem) I had it hair shaving sharp, hit it one more lick on each side and BAM, dull as a brick. Just happens sometimes. IF you get one like that, you'll just have to learn where the sharpest point is and stop until it needs sharpening again.

I use these pic's often but they are a good example of the difference between a factory edge and one that has been sharpened correctly.

The knife was either a gunny or bravo1, I can't remember.

Factory edge


Sharpened edge





All but one BRKT I've seen needed reshaping of the edge, they were all "sharp" but usually ground thin at the edge causing poor edge retention and excessive amounts of damage to the edge. Making them a little thicker by increased sharpening angle usually fixes the problem.

Pressure is something that will take a little time for you to figure out, I've always felt more pressure was better with convex edges but I seem to be a odd one out on that. Learn to use the pressure to create the convex shape and the edge will follow.

Cool photos!

Might be bailing on my Gunny...I'm giving it the evil eye...plus I have wo customs coming soon that are going to be AWESOME!!! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Already have a test in mine...gonna be a good one!