Here it is.

http://www.scrapyardknives.com/ubbthread...=true#Post45356

I have your answer!

I was using a hacksaw and elbow grease for my first couple kydex projects. It worked well enough although a pain. But, I knew it wasn't the easiest way.

So, after some thought, I decided to mark my Kydex with a pencil and then put it in the oven. I heat my Kydex in the oven to 190C/374F. That is just under the burning temperature of Kydex according to Kydex's official specs. They say the burning temp is 204C/399F. Then I take it out of the oven and use a utility knife to cut along the lines I drew.

Hot, soft Kydex cuts like butter even with a dull knife.

This also doesn't leave the same mess a hand saw or band saw does. It leaves absolutely no saw dust.

Then just put it back in the oven for a few minutes to get it back up to optimum temperature so you will have the maximum amount of "work time" before it cools too much. This is also why I bring it so close to its burning temp. I don't like to rush things.

Awesome! Thanks J33.

Thanks for the tutorial link, J33, I learned a few tips and now have it bookmarked.

I'm also getting ready for my first kydex attempt. Some of the pros advertise retention on the handle without blade contact. I was wondering if you wrap the blade in something to give space for the blade?

I was thinking about doing a layer of blue painters tape, but was concerned about what the heat would do.

BTW, thanks JarheadJournalist for the resC melting thread and use of metric <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Some folks have talked about adding one or two layers of tape to the blade before molding. They said that will give it some retention on the blade without scratching to to much. I don't know if they meant two layers on each side or just one layer on each side of the blade, or what kind of tape. I just always thought they meant masking tape.

I use three layers of masking tape on each side. Works for me. The real retention isn't on the blade but on the handle and choil area

You're welcome, WRX. Living in Germany has converted me a little.

The main reason I use a layer of painters tape is that as Jarhead said, the retention of the knife is at the mouth of the sheath. On smaller 1-5 inch blades one layer has worked best for me. On larger blades like the DF, I have used two layers. If you put too much tape, you end up with the blade wiggling around, but ultimately its up to the end user to determine of that is acceptable or not.

I agree with you there. Too many layers will cause wiggle. I should have mentioned that I use what I had in the tool box. It is cheap tape that is really thin. It is hard to pull off the roll without it tearing at an angle. I keep meaning to pick more up, but forget everytime I am at the store.

I have to keep all of my tape in my house because it melts in the garage <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/doh.gif" alt="" />. I like the painters tape because it does not have too much adhesive. The darn stuff is expensive though. As you said any thin tape will work. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

I use a blow dryer to heat the kydex until it is really plaible, then I compress it using the neoprene sponge and plywood method. Lucky me, working in warehouse, the crates of glass oftentimes come with slabs, and I mean SLABS (I have one 24"x12" that I need to glue to some board) of the neoprene rubber. All I need to do is pull it out of the crate and I save myself a ton of money. Not to mention the plywood is easy to come by too, just gotta cut up a crate bottom!

It's amazing how much of the stuff in the warehouse that is "Garbage" is really useful!

Anyone want some neoprene sponge, I can keep an eye out for some.