Hi, guys!

I have a couple of questions that I wanted to ask some of the folks here who have stripped their Scrapyards. I'm not going to take the handle off...I'd just as soon leave the coating on underneath, for an additional layer of protection (plus I don't want to screw up my handle), so I'll be working close to the blade/handle joint.

First of all, how do you get a clean strip around the handle? Does anyone here let the stripper contact the res-C? Will it soften, fade, or discolor it at all? I was going to try to avoid the joint completely, and use a small emory board or sandpaper to clean up the tight spots. Is abrasion enough to clean off the coating; or am I in for a lot of rubbing?

(Does anyone else find my wording a bit creepy?) <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />

Thanks, guys!

BK86

The best strips are done slowly. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Seriously though, I have been curious myself.

I've seen pics of people stripping their res-c handled knives, the stripper does not effect the res-c.

The stripper will not effect the Res-c at all, sometimes I leave the bit of coating intact right by the handle, strip it only to the plunge line, if I'm not going to remove the handle

I don't worry about it at all. I get it all over the handle, with no negative effects. BUT, I've only done INFI knives - B11's and SS4's. I use a pick to gently scrape / remove the remaining coating near the handle, for a clean look.

I did a SOD and it worked great. I used Jasco. I put the knife in a paint roller pan (metal) and dumped the Jasco all over the blade and on to the handle. I waited about 15 min and most of the coating had bubbled off. I used a wooden paint stirrer to scrape off the rest. When I was done I washed it with soap and water an a wash rag. It came out awesome. It had a natural patina to it under the coating. I wish I had left the patina on. It looked cool. No issues with the Res C at all.

I found a good YouTube video on this very subject:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k75QQemkZ0Q

Use gloves!!!

Only stripped an HG55 before so no help, but look forward to seeing your results.

Had no problems stripping my Dereg, just hosed it down with a foaming stripper and let it sit. Came right off.

Lacquer thinner works extremely well also.

Took just over two hours. All stripped very easily. The B11 was a little more stubborn than the others. The CGBJ did not want to give it up totally and will need some work. No sanding yet on any except the RS.

The Rodent Solution was done a few days before as a test run and it has some hand sanding.

I did tape all the scales with the blue painter's tape and trimmed it with the utility knife in the pic.

I would let the tape hang, then stabbed the knives through the middle of the tape all the way through to the handle for a good tight seal, folded the tape back over the top and bottom of the handle then taped up the sides. Trimmed with the utility knife and stripped.

The taping is what took most of the time. I could probably have done everything in under an hour if not for that part. The hardest part of the whole process was putting the tape on, trimming it and getting the tape glue off the handles afterwards. I am not sure if the tape makes a difference but I played it safe.

Rub away you creeper.