And how would this one compare in cost ? <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
V 0.36% Vanadium
Cr 8.25% Chromium
Fe 87.79% Iron
Co 0.95% Cobalt
Ni 0.74% Nickel
Mo 1.3% Molybdenum
C 0.5% Carbon
N 0.11% Nitrogen

Apparently more than the others.

SR-101 is some great stuff!!! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> Of course, SR77 and Infi aren't too bad either. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

I was curious if anyone still feels this way with the 1311 coming out in SR101. I have used SY for years and loved the SR77 in the bush.

I definitely still feel this way. I had really hoped that the MOAD/1311 would be made out of SR77. My experience has been that both can take a tremendous beating without catastrophic failure. Yes, SR-101 takes a fantastic edge and holds it VERY well, but when it does dull or if you manage to chip it, it is a very hard steel to sharpen/reprofile and takes a tremendous amount of effort, especially in the field. On a smaller blade, this is less of an issue, and the superior edge holding becomes an advantage. On a larger blade meant for heavy duty chopping, it makes a huge difference. SR77, on the other hand, loses its razor edge faster, but maintains a working edge for long enough and can be taken back to its original sharpness with less effort. Also, if you do happen to deform the edge on a blade made of SR77, it is much easier to fix, in my experience.

This is just my opinion based on my experience using both steels on choppers in the field. I would consider myself an amateur when it comes to sharpening, so the fact that I can bring the edge back to life pretty quickly on an SR77 chopper out in the field with a ceramic stone or diamond rod makes a big difference to me.

With all this said, I still love SR101 and will continue to use my bigger 101 blades.

I was hoping for SR-77 too, but mostly to help keep the cost down. With that rediculously low forum member only price I really have no reason to complain. No doubt Dan's decision to go with the saber grind rather than a full flat grind was to put more steel behind the edge for added strength.

Yeah, without a doubt. After seeing the picture, my guess on the specs was 100% correct. I could tell that it was 3/16ths when I first saw the picture because of the Sabre grind. There's no doubt a FFG if the preferable grind for a machete, but I think in this case a Sabre or full convex grind was essential in order to make this blade a chopper/machete hybrid. At 1.75" tall and 3/16" thick, I would think that the edge would be too thin to endure heavy chopping without edge deformation/chipping.

Forgive my ignorance on blade grind geometry but wouldnt a full convex grind be best with this thickness? Would bring it closer to a hybrid machete/chopper? I would guess that would bring the cost way up on them though. Maybe if the coating ever gets to ugly it would be worth trying. All speculation of course. I kinda like the extra beef, dont need to worry about what I sink it into.

I suppose that on a thicker blade the grind would be closer to the spine at the same angle as the thinner 3/16ths.

Although I plan on keeping the 1311 no matter how it performs, I don't know what to expect for clearing and chopping close to the ground where there seems to be nothing but rocks around here. I have seen machetes used digging holes and after a few minutes with a file, they are back at work slashing.

I don't think your observations are ignorant at all. I am certainly no expert, but I would agree that a full convex grind would've suited the intended use of the 1311 as a chopper/machete hybrid very well. That being said, I think the Sabre grind will be just fine and that the 1311 is going to be one awesome blade!

I really have no idea what I'm talking about, so please correct me if I'm wrong, but considering that Scrap Yard blades are CNC machined, I can't see how manufacturing the 1311 with a full convex grind would bring the cost up.

As far as I know the only way to put a full convexed grind on a knife is to do it by hand. Obviously this would take far more time and effort thus substantially raising the cost.

Interesting. Not to doubt your knowledge, but do you have any sources? You could be absolutely right, but it would be surprising to me.

Logically, if one blade geometry could only be accomplished by hand, it would mean that a blade with that geometry would cost a great deal more than a blade with a geometry that can be produced by machine. I own several Busses that have full convex grinds and they were not more expensive to comparable blades with a FFG or Sabre grind.

One example would be the NMSFNO and the SFNO. The former has a blade that is just over 8" and has a full height convex grind, the latter has roughly a 7" blade and is full flat ground. The SFNO was sold for $287 and the NMSFNO was $327. The difference of $40 can easily be attributed to the longer & thicker blade, the nuclear meltdown treatment, inflation, et. al.

Their are many other examples of full height convex ground Busses that are priced similarly to comparable blades designed with other grind geometries. To name a few: the original Team Gemini; SAR 4, 6, 8; SARSquatch; SARGE-7; NMFBM; SJTAC; et. al.

If what you say is true, I think Busse would charge far more for any full height convex ground blades.