Here's a link to one site on how to use it. I'll get a couple others and post them here as well.
http://readynutrition.com/resources...ypochlorite-to-disinfect-water_19062010/I found this on AR15.com
You can use granular calcium hypochlorite to disinfect water.
Add and dissolve one heaping teaspoon of high-test granular calcium hypochlorite (approximately ¼ ounce) for each two gallons of water, or 5 milliliters (approximately 7 grams) per 7.5 liters of water. The mixture will produce a stock chlorine solution of approximately 500 milligrams per liter, since the calcium hypochlorite has available chlorine equal to 70 percent of its weight. To disinfect water, add the chlorine solution in the ratio of one part of chlorine solution to each 100 parts of water to be treated. This is roughly equal to adding 1 pint (16 ounces) of stock chlorine to each 12.5 gallons of water or (approximately ½ liter to 50 liters of water) to be disinfected. To remove any objectionable chlorine odor, aerate the disinfected water by pouring it back and forth from one clean container to another.
And here's one more
Calcium Hypochlorite / Pool Shock Water Treatment:
I did a bunch of research on this and thought I'd share it here (and save it here for my memory because this is the second time I've had to research this). While everything here is true to the best of my knowledge, I provide references so that you may seek out the original source and decide for yourself. Using any of this information is at your own risk and by continuing to read you agree to assume all responsibility and absolve me for any harm which may result from use of this information.
Intro:
Calcium Hypochlorite (I’ll call it CH for simplicity) is a powdered chlorine compound that has several advantages over household bleach. CH has a shelf-life of 2+ years [2] compared to 6 months for household bleach [1]. CH is cheaper, and more concentrated than bleach. However this does make it more dangerous.
Basic Instructions [11]:
To use the CH, start with the cleanest, clearest water you can get (filter or leave in a still container for a day and use a ladle to pull off the top).
Mix a heaping ½ tsp with 1 gallon of water to make a general disinfecting solution that is good for cleaning, sanitizing and hand-washing.
Then add 2.5 tablespoons of this solution to 1 gallon dirty water and let sit for 30 minutes to make potable (drinking) water.
If the water doesn’t smell faintly of chlorine after 30 minutes, add another tablespoon and wait 30 more minutes. Repeat until the water smells of chlorine.
To reduce the chlorine taste, pour the water back and forth between two containers for a few minutes, or sit the open container in direct sunlight for a few hours.
Where to get it:
The cheapest and most readily available source of CH is HTH Shock and Swim Poll Shock which is sold in 1 lb bags at wal-mart, home depot and elsewhere. They cost $3. Now, I know what you’re thinking “OMG I’m not drinking pool chemicals”, that was my first reaction. But the manufacturer even has EPA approval for using the product for the regular treatment of potable water wells and cisterns as well as emergency treatment of household drinking water [7-8]. This is a bit weaker than “pure” HC, so you will need to increase the amount used in the above formulas by 25-30%, but as the correct amount varies a bit anyways, this is no big deal, remember the smell test. 1 lb of this will make 100 gallons of cleaning solution and treat 100,000 gallons of drinking water. Now that’s some serious water treatment.
If you choose to use a product other than "HTH Shock and Swim" (not SUPER shock and swim), make sure it is EPA approved for use in drinking water. Reference #7 is a good place to start, I wouldn't use anything not on that list, but don't stop at the list, get that EPA number and google it. Go to the actual EPA documents (similar to reference 8 but for your product) and make sure it approved for emergency drinking water treatment.
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Safety [5]:
Always read the MSDS before using any chemicals, this stuff is DANGEROUS. Eye protection is a must when handling CH. Gloves and a dust mask are not essential, but it's stupid not to use them, it's less than a dollar and might save you thousands in medical bills. Handle the powder in a well-ventilated area without wind. When dealing with corrosive chemicals it is always a good practice to have a 5 gallon bucket or sink full of water nearby to submerge your head, body or arms in case of an emergency.
When mixing CH add the CH to the water not vice-versa. It is important to go from dry to weak solution (less than 20% chlorine by weight) as fast as possible. If you only add a small amount of water to the CH it will release hazardous amounts of gaseous chlorine. If you feel a strong burning or stinging in your eyes, throat or lungs at any point, evacuate to fresh air immediately, chlorine can be deadly and was in fact used as a chemical warfare agent in WWI.
CH is a fire hazard when heated or mixed with certain organic compounds which will not be mentioned. Basically, don't let this stuff touch anything but plastic, glass and stainless steel and you'll be good to go.
Storage:
This stuff is dangerous, follow storage guidelines carefully.
keep away from children and pets and only store the minimum you might need (seriously a pound or two goes a long way). Store the powder in a cool, dark place (temperature and sunlight speed decomposition and can cause the material to combust or release chlorine gas over 125 F). Keep dry and in an airtight container (water or even high humidity will cause the release of chlorine gas).
At room temperature in a dry dark place, the storage life is over two years, the product can be kept for longer, but more will have to be used for the same results (the decomposed product is calcium carbonate, i.e. tums). Keep away from food, medicine and valuables because even in a sealed container, some gaseous chlorine will permeate and may ruin these items.
Polyethylene (LDPE or HDPE) containers are the preferred method of storage, as this is what the manufacturer’s packages are made of [3]. Nalgene makes HDPE containers that are available at most sporting goods stores (the squeezable Nalgene, look for HDPE, LDPE or UVPE marked on the bottom). Polycarbonate/lexan (i.e. the hard nalgenes) and PVC are not suitable for CH storage. PET, the material used for clear soda bottles is suitable if on a budget, but choose the thickest bottles possible [4]. Ideally you want to minimize the airspace in the container as chlorine gas will build up in that space and may overwhelm you when you open it.
I personally store 1 lb sacks of HTH shock-n-swim in 1 liter HDPE Nalgene bottles. With some work the sack can be put in the bottle without opening it, providing a double layer of protection. The first time I purchased some I put it in an old glass food jar thinking the rubber coating would keep the lid from rusting out… it didn’t even last a year.
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More detailed info [8-12]:
The amount of chlorine required varies because minerals and organic compounds in the water will use up the HC before “free” chlorine can be released to attack waterborne pathogens. You can only smell the free chlorine, so if you can’t smell the chlorine, then you don’t have any free chlorine available. “pure” HC is about 70% free chlorine (700k ppm).
Household bleach is 5% free chlorine (50k ppm).
0.1%-1% free chlorine (1-10k ppm) for serious disinfecting and bleaching laundry.
OSHA & the EPA allows restaurants to clean dishes and prep surfaces with 200 ppm chlorine solution without rinsing afterwards.
Waste water is treated at 60 ppm.
Water that is clean, clear and soft (rainwater with a bit of bird poop) will require about 0.5 ppm chlorine to be drinkable.
Water that is clean, clear and hard (clean running streams, springs, wells) will require about 1 ppm chlorine to be drinkable.
Water hard with limited algae growth (lakes, cisterns) will require about 2 ppm chlorine to be drinkable.
Water with significant turbidity or organics (muddy, heavy algae) should be filtered through a sand filter if at all possible before being treated, but some directions allow for concentrations as high as 20 ppm for drinking water (I'd definitely let this sit out in the sun for a few hours and aerate the crap out of it).
Instructions seem to vary quite a bit and there is some tolerance for error, but most sources seem to agree that the smell test is the threshold for having the right amount of chlorine.
