Nice work Vic! I'm surprised at how the coating bubbles up like that...

I'm VERY happy with my RD7 that I stripped the coating on the blade (only) off and blued. I really like having the coating still intact on the handle area since that 5160 rusts if you look at it sideways (ask my satin RD9!!)

I'd imagine that the stripper would be hard to use on a blade section and not get on the tang, huh?

Again, great tutorial - thanks!

Very helpful info Vic, thanks alot.

this will help me tremendously.

thank you

Not only can you get really fine grit sanding disks for putting a nice shiny edge you can do a thick 40 grit belt unto disks that remove tons of rust and other material. You can actually use them to sculpt with micarta.

I just redid the finish on my stripped SS4 again tonight because I use her hard and it had tons of scratches.

It took about 10 minutes and looks pretty good to. I used those 80 grit flapper sanding wheels for the dremel and first did the whole flat part of the blade.
Then I went back and forth from 1 end to the other in long smooth strokes to make it uniform. Then I did the other side. It looks great and is tough and easy to fix. I left the INFI dimples on the part that was not flat ground for some contrast.

I got the little flapper sanding disk in a 5$ generic dremel bit set.

Wow, I just found this thread, nice work. I have been wondering what type of work it would take to strip a knife.