Many people claim that SY (and other Busse-kin) knives ship with thick edges that must be ground down if you want them to slice well. I can keep knives sharp, but I'm wasted on reprofiling edges. Is something like a Lansky system effective for this? or is there a better way? I know some of you will recommend just using sandpaper, but I'm looking for something a little more idiot-proof. Thanks

Sandpaper will sharpen an edge but take years to reprofile one! I used a Lansky to establish a cutting edge on all my Bussekins, downside now V grind not convexed! Just hard to see a performance downturn..

If I was stateside I'd pm Vic for advice or offer bribes to get a "Third World grind shop" edge on your knife! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Like you say re-profiling is much different to just sharpening. There are many makers etc that will thin out an edge for you at a small cost.
Before thinning out an edge, however, do a search because there was someone who tested his Busse kin knives over on BF and he had sent his Swamprat M6 to have the edge thinned out and a custom handle fitted. Upon completion of his test which was just chopping some 2x4's the edge of the M6 was dented all the way along...a real mess ! I can't really get my head around people wanting these really thin edges? As long as a thick edge is kept sharp I find they can serve any purpose I require them for, admitted they may not slice see through slices of tomato etc but is that really important. All my edges will make fuzz sticks and cut meat and veg into decent slices, what more would anyone want ?
I personally don't need my survival knives to split a human hair and to be honest if I'm stuck in a survival situation I ain't gonna worry about shaving either !!!
Just something to think over before getting anything too drastic done to your edges !!!! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

I'd agree with Pitman on this- keep the edges on anything over 4" thick enough to chop things!

I use an Edge Pro for this purpose.

Belt sander, a small cheap one will do.

And to start with, lots of cheap blades to practice on. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />



I've used a Lansky too on smaller blades.

All this is new to me, thanks for the info.

I bought a Accu-Sharp Knife Sharpener, is this good enough to sharpen, or did I waste my money? If so, what would you recommend, something idiot proof, lol

Word up Jeff.

using Sandpaper and a mouse ad by hand is Hell! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />

I use a belt sander, it´s not that hard, just go slow.
Use it on all my knives to thin out the edge the way I like it. Did it on my FBM
and it´s got a pretty thin edge, hairpoping sharp but I´ve been choping alot of old dry rockhard (?) oak without problem. No chip or dent <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I use a belt sander. And you really don't want to thin the edges too much on a hard use knife.

A coarse stone 180-250 grit and a little time. I probably mentioned that a beer helps steady your hand but it's not necessary. I lay the primary at about 17-20 degrees off the stone and 25-30 degrees for a few swipes for the secondary and it's on to the green rouge loaded strop laid on a hard table or bench. A 180 grit diamond stone will cut your re-profiling time in half. The littl'uns get laid back a bit more since they are slicers and not choppers.