How about a little Bark River knife instead of the BAD? A2 won't keep up corrosion wise but otherwise will be pretty good. Wonder if Vic or Knifeguy will chime in..
Like a good sniper mate, around but not detected... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />
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Andy mentioned SS4's- always a great idea!
There are a handfull of good Busse and kin smaller knives IMO. The SS4 is definately one of them IMO.
I have owned (and sold) two AD's. The knife has a lot going for it - ideal blade shape and very good handle with INFI!, but in the end, because of the "NON-Functioning" choil and Talon Hole, the AD just was not for me. But, those who know me, know how I feel about the Busse "NON-Functioning" choils and Talon Holes on smaller knives.
I have in many cases, modified Busse and kin knives to suit my preferences, but I could not come up with an exceptable way to modify the AD for my preferences. So, I sold the first one. I kept hoping and wanting to find a way to fix the AD, so I bought another, but again I had to concede I could make it what I wanted it to be and sold the 2nd as well.
* I don't mind the "functional" choils and Talon Holes so much on mid to larger sized Busse knives, but being functional helps. Being "NON-functional" on a smaller knife is a double negative in my book. They take away a LOT from the smaller Busse knives IMO.
- I have never had much appreciation for any of the Talon Holes for any reason, but again I don't mind them on mid to larger Busse knives. And I have never really had much interest in a D-Guard, but my recent NMSFNO (Awesome knife by the way....) is under consideration for a possible D-Guard ?????? )
The AD or BAD is a highly regarded knife by many though. Obviously, some people don't mind the choil and Talon Hole taking up prime blade edge real-estate.
For me, the AD would be VERY hard to beat if it were made like the bottom "Concept" AD:
As is, I feel the AD is VERY pricey for what it is. As stated by Magnum, Jim and some others, INFI is a little over-kill and over-priced at $250 - $275 for an AD sized knife. There just really are a lot of GREAT knives with better designs and more than sufficient quality of steel and workmanship at lower prices.
If you want a EDC prybar, there are better SY options that are also way cheaper. For that matter.... I don't understand why people who want prybars don't just buy VERY cheap "Pry-bars" or similar "Pry-tools".... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
This should be pretty functional for about $12.00:
see:
EOD ROBOTICS BREACHER BAR Reminds me of a mini-sharpened lawn-mower blade. Or gas edger blade for that matter. For that matter, an edger blade might pry quite well. I have seen edger blades chew up concrete edging and I have never seen one break. They just slowly wear down. So, I assume they are quite tough. And they are CHEAP. But, not as thick as the above tool and not as well finished. So, for $12.00.....
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Something smaller for $5.00. This little dude should fit handily on a key-chain or similar. I would hate to use my $30 - $150 pocket knife blades as a pry tool. And I rarely justify carrying a big heavy Leatherman. This is made of D-9. I don't know anything about D-9, but they say it is tough (????). For $5.00, might be worth trying for some people.:
with para-cord wrap:
See:
Widgy Bar Since I don't pry with my smaller knives and chopping is not a concern either, there are MANY great blade steels that have great edge properties and more than sufficient toughness for "My" needs. For me, cutting ability is far more important in smaller knives than "UBER"-toughness. I am happy with "Sufficient" toughness.
INFI still offers both high quality edge properties and toughness, but price and design are always part of my decision as well.
In regards to the BAD's toughness at higher hardness, I honestly don't know, but I would feel VERY confident in it's real world toughness compared to many other knife steels. Just because 58-59 HC INFI is tougher than 62 HC INFI doesn't mean the BAD isn't tough. I would assume it is still very tough and STILL tougher than most other knife steels.
out5yder,
You said:
I should like something which cuts and holds an edge (most of the time I will use it for simple cutting) but I also want to be able to do more with it.
The BAD is advertised as "not intended for being abused", so I wonder what exactly does it mean or at which point is it suitable to resist. Is its edge going to resist if I cut cans with it? Is it going to resist if I implant the tip in material (for example wood) by hammering the end of the handle if I do it carefully? What should I expect from an Active Duty and what can it handle other than simple cutting in soft material?
Yes.... I would be VERY confident that a BAD could cut through cans. I would also be reasonably confident in the BAD's tip toughness. However, the tip is going to be the weakest part of the blade on any knife and while I am sure you could hammer the tip into wood, I don't know how much you can torque on the BAD's tip and higher hardened INFI.
The AD/BAD has a design well suited for "cutting" and EDC/Camp/Hike/Bushcraft type design..... "EXCEPT" for the choil and Talon Hole.
The AD/BAD is not really designed as a prybar type knife. So, personally, I wouldn't get too caught up in toughness and I would probably favor the higher edge retention of the harder INFI for a BAD sized knife.
The 154CM blades do NOT make good prybars and they are hard to sharpen. But, they hold and edge well. And both the MPLE and HCLE are very good user designs and sized well for EDC. The HCLE's handle is a tad small for me. Both have choils, but both choils are functional and usable.
The HRLM is quite bulky for it's blade length. But, I consider the HRLM an outstanding knife for camping and heavy-duty work..... after you modify the non-functioning choil into a functioning choil.
HRLM shown here with modified choil and HR-Gen2
The HRLM is great, but bulkier and heavier than the AD and especially the BAD. So, it might not be ideal as EDC for most.
While I still like Busse and kin for many knives - especially mid to larger sized knives, .... yeah... I think Bark River has some advantages for smaller sized knives in design, function and price compared to the AD or BAD. I could mention many different great Bark River 3.5" - 5" bladed knives. But, depending upon you needs, there are many other good options as well. I can't not mention Fallkniven. Fallkniven makes a great knife in quality and design. Spyderco makes some great slicers as well, but not so many great fixed Spyderco choices. The Mule and Temperance are both great.
In regards to A2, I don't find A2 to "rust" easily at all. But, Paul mentioned "Corrosion". I find A2 prone to "Patina" very easily. Meaning it turns color like blue and yellows with certain acids in food and such. But, I have yet to see brown rust spots or similar on any of my A2 yet. I don't mind the patina so much. In some ways it adds character. But, I do hate rust. INFI is generally pretty resistant to rust, but watch out for the Competition Edge blades with the "Decarb".
My HR rusted pretty bad while in my house and in a drawer - NOT in a sheath. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />
But, I have quite a few other pieces of "stripped" INFI that were in the same drawer that had NO problems. So, I would say there is definitely some issue with the "Decarb" on the Competition blades. ..... Personally, I think Jerry should clean the "Decarb" off of the Competition blades .... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
SR-101 from Swamp Rat is prone to rust, but even SR-101 doesn't rust NEARLY as fast as the Decarb INFI. I just keep a coating of Ren-Wax on my SR-101. Sad that the Swamp is not being given attention by owners. I really like SR-101.
I don't own any of Koster's knives yet, but I have him on my list and his 3V knives should be GREAT steel at reasonably prices and apparent good design.
3V is prone to spotting. But, it is basically like A2 on steriods in performance. I had owned some Fehrman knives in 3V and Fehrman's fit and finish is VERY high quality. But, I found the Peacemaker and Shadow Scout to have handles that were too small and the Last Chance had a VERY bulky large handle (although VERY comfortable) just too large for it's blade. The Last Chance, First Strike and Final Judgement all have the same handle - which is probably well suited for the First Strike and The Final Judgement... Not the Last Chance. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> So, while I was VERY impressed with Fehrman's quality, I couldn't find a smaller sized knife that I appreciated in my hand. And I like quite a few of the Busse offerings better than comparable sized First Strike and Final Judgement offerings. Sorry for the Fehrman tangent... was just thinking about 3V options.
I recently acquired a Spyderco Mule in M4..... Smaller than the AD, but AWESOME steel and very usable design.... you just have to build your own handle. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> - There are many options for having someone else put one on for you.
The blade come like this:
But, the platform is well designed for simple customization and a great user knife. Some customs:
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