I was wondering if anyone reprofiled their knives from scrap yard. If so does it help with chopping and what kind of edge is on it now?

pm horn dog..

he has a remarkable 3rd world grind shop!

yeah. thinned, convexed, and polished. it helps everything but blunting/dulling.

Everyone one of these knives except the top (green) fbm has been convexed.



It makes a HUGE difference in chopping. You feel a nice deep bite, instead of it almost bouncing out.

Our chopping table.



2x8

The only one I've done serious reprofiling to so far is my DMLE. It came with a 30 degree edge, and I took it down to a 23 degree edge.

Here's a couple pics; I've posted them before, but maybe you haven't seen them yet.




I can shave the hair off my face with it now. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

I'm currently working on reprofiling the edges on my Tan Sod, Yardkeeper LE, and my CG ASH1. When they're done, I'll have to put some pics up.

Horndog is the one to talk to, I've got one of his S6 and it is insanely sharp.

Vic, if you bring your belt sander to Blade I'll bring my knives and there is a nice juicy steak in it for you. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> I need a convexing lesson.

I actually just got a brand new DMT 10" bench stone for the express purpose of reprofiling my Muk*. I'll post pix when I'm finished.






*and my tomahawk for that matter

The easiest way to re-profile is with a Lansky system using diamond stones and their bench anchored hand grip for leverage...



This gives a precise ability to put a primary and secondary bevel on a knife if you take measurements and work out the angles....you can do a job on these that "mates" up with the angles on a Spyderco Sharp maker and use that to top up your edge and keep it razor sharp. A primary and secondary bevel is as close as you can get to a "convex" edge without needing to use "freehand" techniques.

After a while learning the ropes like this you can get a belt sander and using different belts develop a true convex edge technique which once the tricks are mastered enable a very fast way to re-profile or simply "top up" your edges

I re-profiled this DMDC for a Dog in Cz who had difficulty getting one...the edge at the start was 30 degrees or so...I reprofiled the primary edge to 23 degrees and the secondary bevel to 20 degrees giving him a robust tapering edge which could still be very sharp. These angles are about ideal...a Sharpmaker will give a primary angle of 20 degrees and a secondary one of 15 degrees...a bit more suited for pen knife use IMO...or knives with a high Rc heat treatment which are designed as slicers...a chopper benefits from a bit more meat in the blade edge...I like a 23 degree convexed edge the best...and after practise tapering in edges done on my Lansky system on the belt sander to a proper convex edge using a marker pen to colour the edge so I knew what angle to hold the knife to the belt sander ( trial and error here but the removal of the Ink gives a good idea ) now enables me to do a good edge straight off freehand.

Thx for the info Steel Fan sadly I don't have access to most of that stuff.

Boots - if you've got some patience, the mousepad and sandpaper method is hard to beat. It's easy to learn and puts a beautiful convex edge on your knife. It will be difficult to get it perfect and uniform, but it will produce a great, durable, useful edge.