Knifeguy,
Lots of questions so I will try and answer them as best I can in one post. Yes, the Res-C handles are on pretty darn snug even without the tubing. However, it is not impossible to remove. It took me a long time through trial and error to figure out how to remove them without damage to the handle or myself <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> It is a proprietary method so it must remain secret. I will have to kill you if I told you.
hahaha...just kidding!
I will see if I can take some pics of the process next time around. But I will do my best to try and describe the process in words.
1) Very carefully drill out the tubing with 1/4" drill bit. I highly recommend a very sharp and fresh new bit. The reason is because sometimes the flared tubing does not hold onto the res-c with enough pressure. A dull bit will cause the tubing to spin in place and further cut into the res-c. It is does not damage the res-c too much but just makes it harder to drill because the slippage will now enlarge the soft res-c channel making subsequent drillings tough at best. When possible try to drill deep enough so that it is almost touching the metal tang.
2) Use a 1/4" punch, insert it into the drilled tubing and bend side to side until the flared tubing breaks off.
3) Now use a hammer and 1/4" punch and tap the rest of the tubing out from the drilled side.
4) Clamp the blade down onto a vise or similar device. You may want to use some soft padding if you don't want to scratch blade. I don't bother because I regrind the whole blade anyway.
5) Use a wooden block and hammer to tap the handle out of the tang. You will obviously be tapping from ricasso towards tubing. Some handles are on tighter than others so you may have to wack it pretty good. It may take a little patience but trust me it works. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />
6) Re-attaching the handle after the grinding is simply a matter of pointing the tip onto a piece of 2X4 and start the insertion of the handle into the tang. From there I just use a rubber mallet to whack the handle until it is fully seated.
7) Cut a 1/4" tubing that is slightly oversized then sand it down to the proper length. I like my tubings to be about 1/32 longer than the actual thickness of the handle. Slightly more or less won't hurt anything. The longer the tubing the more pressure is required to flare. The tubings are just standard 1/4" stainless tubing that can be purchased from any knife supply places. Some places call them thong hole tubing. I like to use the ones with slight thicker walls because they are stronger.
8) Insert the tubing through the handle and tang. At this point I use a set of dies that was made for me on a lathe. But any cut-off dry wall screw heads will do. I have rehandled countless of handles using the drywall screws. The dies just makes it easier to hold and position because they are larger.
Yes, the arbor press should work. You will probably just have to exert more force on your end. The vise requires less force on the user because the threading creates more leverage. Every turn of the handle only close the
jaws a small amount. Whereas the arbor press is more of a direct leverage.
Any decent mid to large sized vice should do. Doesn't necessarily have to be a wilton. I do have to admit that I have broken a few smaller cheapy vises from rehandling.
Hope this helps. Let me know if I missed anything else.
