Sort of what I figured since I "assumed" the Res-C handles were all from the same mold and probably designed to fit the thinnest tangs used to date. The Bog Dog is about 0.14" thick. But, thanks for the confirmation. I wasn't sure if maybe the Res-C stretched and "took a set" or something.





Quality tools (steel) is why we are here. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> - And yet I still use and actually have a fair collection of Utility knives and blades. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

And I VERY much agree. I buy "Quality" tools when they are justified, and I expect to be able to utilize them and get MANY years of use and good performance out of them. I "tend" to gravitate towards buying the best I can justify or the best quality to value. (Price to performance Ratio and all. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> )

But, like you mentioned, there are MANY justifications for buying certain tools with a more "Disposable" use approach. Utility knives and blades are a PRIME example for me. I collect and use a LOT of expensive and fine knives. And I do use them. Day in and out, I carry some sort of quality folder (or two or three. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> )
But, I do construction type projects all the time around my house and helping others. And there are many "Beater" cases where I just don't feel like abusing my $100+ knives. In many cases, it isn't even worth the hassle to justify the time and effort to even resharpen the quality knife for me. Good utility knives are sharp, functional, tough, convenient and easily replaced with a new sharp blade when done - Cheap enough to justify tossing in the trash rather than resharpening. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />
However, even then, I have a particular "Beater" folder that I pretty much always carry for when doing projects. I have an old highly modified CRKT Apache with ATS-34 (very similar to 154CM). That I think offers a good blade, ergos and function for reasonably cheap - so that I don't mind abusing and sharpening a lot - while still being enjoyable to use and worthwhile to carry.

Side note on utility blades: I like the Irwin Blue Bi-Metal blades for bang for the buck. They cost a bit more, but definitely last longer than ordinary utility blades.
The Lenox Gold Bi-Metal (Titanium Nitride edge coated) blades "might" be even better (?????) - But, also typically a bit more than the Irwin Blue blades.

I think (????) both Irwin and Lenox are both owned by the same parent company: Newell/Rubbermaid Inc. - And if I understand correctly, the Lenox and Irwin blades both use the same "Bi-Metal" technology, but with the Lenox Gold adding the Titanium Nitride edge coating.

I haven't seen a fair comparison test between Irwin's Blue and Lenox Gold blades yet and I haven't had the opportunity yet to do a reasonable and fair comparison. I have mostly used the Blue blades as I keep finding those as an option more often than I come across the Lenox. I have only used a handful of the Lenox blades. And as with many cutting chores being random and different, it is hard to say which is better.





I have looked a few times at random and I will keep checking. I am not terribly concerned about light surface rust either on this type of tool. And with the bullet enclosed housing, most of the internals are more likely to be kept in decent condition.

You are right though, I have seen a few "decent" condition ones sell for about $150 - $200. Not many of the machinist/Tradesman (Bullet housing) type variety seem to go for much less than $150 though. And for what I typically do, $150 buys some pretty NICE power tools - that typically provide me with more function. I could almost upgrade to a Kalamazoo belt grinder for that kind of money. - Which I am surprised I haven't upgraded to something yet. But, along the lines of doing it right, the 1x30 is a tool I purchased MANY years ago for a small project and didn't see much long term value and use in the tool at the time - so I bought cheap. For about $40 or so that I paid, it has done a LOT. But, it is not the quality level of most of my other tools. So, now that I know how much I "Now" use my belt grinder, my next one will be pretty nice..... But, I still don't know if I can't go $1000 + for a KMG. To me, that still just seem dang high compared to other comparable quality power tools.

Heck, I have a pretty dang nice Ridgid table saw that goes for about $500 and tons of other "HIGH End" shop and hand-held power tools that typically sale for $100 - $200. So, something like a KMG might be one of the best, but still a relatively HIGH dollar purchase. You have to MAKE and SELL or FIX for profit a LOT of knives for a tool like that to pay for itself. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

"Most" of my other "quality" power tools have WAY paid for themselves very easily and many times over (with only a couple exceptions/mistakes along the way ) <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/paperbag.gif" alt="" />.

I think it would be pretty hard for a KMG to provide that level of return on investment. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> ... Most likely, for me, it wouldn't pay for itself. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

Unfortunately, any way I slice it, now is not a good time for me to buy tools in that price range (Wilton or upgrade belt sander - etc.). Right now, I keep having to sell knives just to pay bills lately. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

When I get a few things turned around financially, I am sure I will keep looking for a good deal on a Wilton. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />

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