Knifeguy,
Lots of questions so I will try and answer them as best I can in one post. Yes, the Res-C handles are on pretty darn snug even without the tubing. However, it is not impossible to remove. It took me a long time through trial and error to figure out how to remove them without damage to the handle or myself <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> It is a proprietary method so it must remain secret. I will have to kill you if I told you.
hahaha...just kidding!
Hope this helps. Let me know if I missed anything else.
Big help Ban. I appreciate it. ..... Although, you probably put "yourself" in more danger for sharing this classified info than me. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> - Still, I appreciate you taking that risk for us. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />
I will see if I can take some pics of the process next time around.
<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crossfingers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crossfingers.gif" alt="" />
6) Re-attaching the handle after the grinding is simply a matter of pointing the tip onto a piece of 2X4 and start the insertion of the handle into the tang. From there I just use a rubber mallet to whack the handle until it is fully seated.
With exposed tang knives like micarta slabs, removing thickness from the tang while the scales are removed and then re-attaching the scales shouldn't be any problem - so long as the tang grinds are kept flat.
But, to properly satin finish the ricasso on the the Res-C knives, I assume you just sand back to a point just behind where the Res-C handle covers (???).
Does this create any gaps of concern between the handle and Res-C that are visible at the front of the handle?
Are any gaps created that are concerns for catching and holding water, debris, blood, food, etc.?
I assume the various Res-C handles are tighter or looser mostly depending on the different steel thicknesses used. I assume the Res-C handles are all pretty much cast molded with the same size tang hole. Does that seem to be the likely case?
Yes, the arbor press should work. You will probably just have to exert more force on your end. The vise requires less force on the user because the threading creates more leverage. Every turn of the handle only close the
jaws a small amount. Whereas the arbor press is more of a direct leverage.
Any decent mid to large sized vice should do. Doesn't necessarily have to be a wilton. I do have to admit that I have broken a few smaller cheapy vises from rehandling.
I think the specs I read on one Arbor press were that it had a 20 to 1 crank ratio. So, to get 1 ton of press force (2,000 pounds), you would have to exert about 100 pounds of force +/- depending on leverage created by length of lever (?????), friction, etc.
But, I can't find ANY specs for Bench type vices as to what level of press force they are capable of clamping with (?????).
In any event, a Bench Vice still seems WAY more useful down the road. I am just not convinced I want to mess with paying $50+ for an Arbor Press that I can't see serving much variety of purpose for me (?????)
I can see value in having a "Good" quality bench vice. But, I am one who likes to buy "GOOD" Quality tools. I hate buying something that I later find not worthy or not quality later on. A Good Wilton should last a lifetime if reasonably maintained (kept dry and out of rain <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> ) and not beat on too much with sledge hammers. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
I think I would want to go with about a 50 - 60 pounder. Which is about a 4" - 4.5" (400 - 450 series) per Wilton. A 350 series or similar might be fine. The 350 series appears to be around 35 - 40 pounds depending on if with swivel base or not.
I gather if I understand correctly (????) that the Wilton machinest and Tradesman vices with the enclosed "bullet" housings are the better vices (?????). But, I have not personally had the opportunity to use and compare many vices. I have used a few "Cheap" open end box type bench vices and none that seemed very impressive so far.
I would not be too happy with a rickety piece of junk with wobbly jaws and rough and or poor-fitted gears. I would want a pretty decent quality vice - with smooth precision (well fitted) gears and smooth jaws without wobble! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />
A new Wilton is just WAY too expensive. Hard for me to justify for what it is vs. what I could use it for. For a professional machinest, your tools are your livelihood. And while I am not a machinist, I can VERY much appreciate many of the quality tools I own have "EARNED" their cost over the years. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />
So, I have a bit of dilemma about the price of a good Bench vice vs. what I "Want" and can justify.
I would think a used Wilton would offer a good option. But, those go for a high premium as well. I still can't find one that is in "decent" condition at a good price. Heck most of the used Wiltons that are horribly rusted and BEAT to SNOT still sell for a high price. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />
I keep looking..... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />
Maybe some day, I just need to get my income back up to par and be able to buy some things again. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/paperbag.gif" alt="" />
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In any event, thanks a bunch for what you have taken the time to share so far. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />
.
