I like using the KME to set a 20 degree edge then maintaining it with whatever else. It's an older pic but this was with the KME and some stropping.


Matching up the edge angle after setting the initial angle can be a pain in the butt so I just use the KME to set the initial edge and use a combination of a DMT C/F DuoSharp, medium grit Smith diamond stick, the Work Sharp Guided Sharpening System, the Work Sharp field sharpener, and a pile of strops. The DMT's and the guided Work Sharp are my favorites at home, the Work Sharp field sharpener is nice to drop in a pack. I have a bunch of strops that I've bought or made, my favorite at home is a big piece of 8-9 oz leather glued to a piece of MDF with Bark River black compound. I have a StropMan with black and green compound for dragging out in the woods. I need to get one of Flexx's field strops at some point, they look good.

I bought one of these from Knives Ship Free- http://www.knivesshipfree.com/knife...t-for-field-or-home-w-s3-dry-box-yellow/ but I haven't used it yet. Seems like it'd be good for knives and axes but it definitely takes up some room. It's obviously going to convex an edge but as long as stuff gets cut I don't worry too much about whether it's a V-edge of convexed.

I have one of the first series of WorkSharp electric sharpeners, I would definitely give the KO version a whirl.

I think it's worth mentioning that little Work Sharp field sharpener is a pretty fantastic bang for the buck.

I have heard, that the WorkSharp has some issues, sharpening the last bit of the edge, on choilless knives.
At least that
is what that guy from "Equip 2 Endure" said.
Is there some truth to that?

I had a chance to check the edge on Andy's DSSF I was wrapping in leather and it was really sharp!

I've been 'working' on my freehand convexing lately, my SARs endured and have decent edges now

In use..



Rasmus I can see how maybe that would be an issue, I own very very few knives without a choil so I have not yet crossed it. I would humbly suggest that once one was well versed in the WS it would be pretty simple to free hand that part of the blade, I do my whole Skeleton Key freehand as it does not work with the guides but once you have used the guides enough the principle is burnt into you. Many choiless blades are factory sharpened on a belt (including those from Busse) so I don't see it as a deal breaker at all. Most people will "need" a couple of methods for different styles and uses of blades but for ME (very subjective) the WS is the one.

.... that DSSF was a work in progress for a good long time, it is nicely on the sharp side now...

Those edges look great mate !!!

I got to see the work sharp in a store today. Seems like a good unit for what it is. I see it works well on the larger fixed blades! What do you use for the final finish/ polish? Is the fine belts in that set fine enough? Do you have to use work sharp KO belts or so other belts fit?

I use the belts that came with it, they do just fine for a working edge (you know, one that you will use for practical tasks like cutting and skinning ) but also bought a bunch (100x) micro mesh belts out here in the range 80x to about 1200 x (got these as I could get them locally much cheaper than the WS versions) then I finish on a stop with grey and green.

I am out working on reprofiling my drop point R6 just now.

Thanks for the info. I think I will have to try one. I just can't afford a WE sharpening system and the work sharp KO really can sharpen everything I have.

OK, NOW I know what the WS KO is.

Strop bat vs a strop belt? What will work best?