Painting your rifle is very easy...

STEP ONE - Determine what you want to accomplish

After you commit to painting your rifle, you'll need to decide what type of result you're seeking. Personally, I wanted a camo finish that would be easy to apply and remove.




STEP TWO - Select your paint type and colors

After you select your "pattern", you'll need to acquire the necessary paints. Personally, I wanted something that would be functional in a four season woodland environment. To accomplish this I chose four paints:

Krylon Fusion Camo - OD Ultra Flat
Krylon Fusion Camo - Tan Ultra Flat
Rustoleum - Nutmeg Satin
Rustoleum Camo - Earth Brown

STEP THREE - Prep your rifle

A) Strip all lubricants from the exterior. I used mineral spirits for this.
B) Strip all mineral spirits from the rifle. I used Acetone for this.
C) Plug the bore with a foam earplug.
D) Use painters tape to "tape off" anything you don't want painted.

I only taped off my LaRue MBT trigger. I didn't care if the rest of the rifle had paint / overspray on it. When painting optics I take greater care to protect certain parts of the optic.




STEP FOUR - Prep your paint booth

I created a "paint booth" in my garage out of a cardboard boxes. I recommend you wear a N95 mask while painting.

Try to paint while the temperature is between 60-80F and the humidity is relatively low.

Shake each paint can vigorously for 2 minutes. Shake throughout process.



STEP FIVE - Base coat

Select the color you want to be your "base coat" and cover the entire rifle and accessories with this color being careful to not overapply the paint.

Hold the can 10-12" away and "spritz" the paint. Don't over paint.

Wait until the paint is dry enough to paint each side.

Repeat the process until the rifle is fully painted.



STEP SIX - Add camouflage

After the base coat is applied, start adding your camouflage. This will include other paint colors, but could also include: stencils, mesh, vegetation, etc.

I always like to "blur edge" my colors by lighting striping each color, and then hitting the stripe again with a heavier/closer burst of paint. This creates a nice effect.

All painting must be completed within a 24 hour period.





STEP SEVEN - Dust the rifle

After your camo is complete lightly dust the rifle with TWO of your favorite colors.

This is accomplished by spraying each at the same time. I typically hold the paint 16-18" away in a "V" shape (one can in each hand shoulder width apart spraying toward the same spot on the rifle). This creates a "camo mist" that will soften your pattern.

EXPERIMENT before you try this on your gun.

STEP EIGHT - Let it cure

I recommend seven days for a good cure. You might want to use a heat gun or hair dryer as well. I don't typically use heat, and have good results. Be sure to wait at least 24 hours before you reinstall accessories.

STEP NINE - Brag about your awesomeness

After your rifle is finished start taking pictures, and showing everyone:

A) You had the testicular fortitude to spray $4 paint on your $1400 rifle;
B) It looks awesome;
C) You're more tactical than they are.
D) They should be ashamed of their weak paintfoo / lack of testicular fortitude.

NOTE - should you desire to see more detail...

If you "right click" on each picture you'll have the option to "VIEW IMAGE". This will allow you to see a larger picture with more detail. You can also "zoom in" after you "view image".

Awesome thread, Gary. Thank you for posting it.

I see you used Krylon and Rustoleum. Do you prefer one over the other? Is there a different brand you prefer over all others?

Adam,
Thanks.

I MUCH prefer Krylon Fusion Camo over Rustoleum. I went to the following stores in order to find the two cans of Krylon I scored:

Menard's
Lowe's
Home Depot
Hobby Lobby
Michael's
WalMart
Target
ACE
Dick's
Gander Mountain
Academy
Advanced Auto

I had used Krylon Camo before and liked it. Krylon goes on "powdery" but is almost dry the moment you spray it. After not finding all of the colors I wanted locally I researched, at length, Rustoleum, and the consensus was it wasn't a good choice. I found that Rustoleum isn't as bad as online reviews stated, but it does "sputter" and doesn't dry as quick. I also found their "Ultra Flat" camo paint is far from ultra flat.

Overall, I'm pleased with the results.

I'm going to paint another rifle, and plan on adding a much brighter green into the mix (five color pattern). My only choice will be to buy Rustoleum camo green at WalMart. At $3.86 you can't complain.

I paid $7.99 for each can of Krylon at Advanced Auto.

Related: There is a lot of support for Aervoe paint, but in my opinion there is no reason to order paint for this project.

For me, a good spray painted rifle does NOT look like an airbrushed or dipped project. I want / like the blurred effect of cheap rattle can paint jobs.

They all wear, and frankly it looks better after it starts to show use.

GREAT write up Gary. Thank You and it does look nice.

Awesome thread!

Nice! Thanks for posting!

I'm seriously thinking of painting one of my Handi Rifles to match my RealTree gear at some point. This thread is encouraging!

I decided to strip and repaint this rifle.

I derail stripped the rifle and then used CitiStrip and a toothbrush....



I finished with Acetone and reassembled....

I used Rustoleum camo paints for the repaint last night. I was up until after midnight trying to get that CRAP paint to finish out.

DO
NOT
BUY
RUSTOELUM

This morning I started the strip process again, because RUSTOELUM IS GARBAGE PAINT.

I'm going to refinish with just Krylon fusion camo. I only have two colors, but might try mixing them and sponging a third on.

Stay tuned.

Sponge camo...