Start with a mousepad and sandpaper and a good strop. Add to that a Sharpmaker and then work your way to free hand like MB is talking about and then on to a belt sander. I think when you understand jig systems like the Apex Pro and the newer Wicked Sharp- it actually makes you better on the belt. Just my two cents- I have more stones and sharpening systems than I need- but I am as addicted to sharpening as I am to the knives. Also talk to guys like Vic and fast camo ( Paul). I " think" Vic still does sharpening and he is excellent <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />-Luck

Unless you get a really dull one, all you need is $1.00 ceramic rod from the guys in TN who sell all those knives. It is surprisingly easy. Check out Jerry Busse's sharpening tips for INFI on the Busse Combat site. It works on SR101, too. Sure, if you're a fanatic and are reprofiling lots of big blades, a belt sander is fast. But to keep a 7" bowie sharp, that little rod is fast and easy.

Are there any good tutorials on youtube?

I know the guys at work used to use the ceramic filaments from the burned out industrial lightbulbs to touch up their blades. It sounds savage but it worked

As Vic suggested, a ceramic rod is a safe, easy way to keep a blade sharp. It will also teach you the basics of controlling the edge angle while you sharpen. And, because it doesn't aggressively remove steel, it makes it very difficult to ruin your knife as you're learning...unlike a belt sander.

i would recommend the spyderco sharpmaker, i have heard a lot of good things about this system. they say its really easy to operate and easy for you to control your angle.

what i use and i think is very affordable and super easy is sand paper and a mouse pad.

I tell you a really nice system is the Apex Edge Pro. If you have the money it really helps with keeping the proper angle and it pretty easy to use after a few min of getting used to it. Well worth the investment!!

sharpmaker rocks. I have a sharpmaker with the optional diamond and ultrafine stones and I'm very happy with all of them

On a similar note, if you find broken ceramic dishes, any exposed smooth ceramic surfaces (often the bottom rim) work okay.

I have to second or third the use of diamond stones. They last functionally forever and are available in a wide assortment of grit. DMT makes a variety of different styles, ranging from large bench top stones to folding pocket sharpeners, many of them double sided so you have both a sharpening and honing surface in one tool.

If nothing else, just use a rock. Any hard, smooth, fine grained river stone will sharpen a knife acceptably for anybody but surgeons.

Sometimes it's easy to overthink this whole process of grinding metal. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

If you're really sharpening challenged, you MIGHT want to consider starting with one of the angled rod systems. With those you just draw the knife from heel to tip while holding it VERTICAL. The rods, being at an angle will handle that part for you. Plus you can get diamond rods or slip on covers and still use the same system. Then, later you will be able to start freehanding using a diamond hone/rod (diamond stones stay flat, and I have been using one for the last 12-13 years). Then get yourself a good diamond rod (I REALLY like the eze lap model M for it's robustness. So to recap, just my own personal recommendations:

1. Angled rod sharpeners that fit in pre aligned holes in a base.

2. Diamond hones in course and fine (either a combo stone or 2 stones).

3. Portable diamond impregnated steel rod 9like the eze-lap model M).

ENJOY YOUR NEW FOUND TALENT!

Randy, you are a "sharp" guy! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/doh.gif" alt="" />................................. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />