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Doc: Why do you think it's pointless? A convex edge can easily be maintained in the field. Cut a strip of leather or a mousepad and bring some sandpaper, then lay them on something flat and sharpen. Or do what I do and bring a fine ceramic rod and use a microbevel for touch-ups in the field then reset the convex profile when the microbevel starts to get thick. Convex edges cut nicely. They seperate material well compared to a V edge. Regardless the most important thing to getting good geometry behind the edge is how thin you take it, not whether it's V or convex. I use a microbevel with either edge type though, so field touch ups are no issue.
It just is not a quick solution for me, at least not worth the effort....a convex edge will never be as sharp as a hollow ground thin blade (read razor)... and I know that convex is stronger...that's why is is also called an axe grind... but hauling a mouse pad, sandpaper..and all that other garbage into the woods or in your BOB is a waste of space and time...sandpaper gets wet and ruins....mousepads do to...leather rots...I am not implying you shouldn't do it...I am saying it is a waste of time...for me... I'll take my old shaving sharp normal double bevel, or flat and do as much work as anyone.... I guess I've cleaned as many hogs as most....a knife cuts....keep it sharp...however you like...and it'll cut...I just think all this convex edge talk for a knife is hoopla....sorry...my opinon... your mileage may vary...
Oh, and if you wanna chop with a thin knife...I recommend a machete, else use an axe....again... why would I want to beat myself to death with my knife trying to chop a log in half.... and potentially break and waste my blade...
right tool for the job...
and for the record.... that S5 is one sweet blade... the handle is a might small for might fat hands...but it will work... but man that choil and thumb grip is right on...fits me like a glove....
Doc
