Zero edges are nice for soft contact. By that I mean soft cutting like food prep, leather work and soft green woods. There relatively thin and unsupported edge makes zero edged susceptible to chipping when used for hard contact, hard contact being hard woods both green and cured, knots (soft and hard wood) animal bone and cinder blocks just to name a few. Axe maker Gränsfors Bruks generally profiles there axes for soft pine and fir and warn the use on hard cured wood could damage/chip the edge. You need to re profile the edge before attacking the cured oak pile.

The secondary beveled edge maintains more material behind the edge thus supporting it for hard contact/impact. This edge can also be made very sharp and will preform well on soft and hard woods alike. The secondary beveled edge allows usage over a greater range of material whereas the zero edge is more limited. If your tool is targeted towards hard use then the secondary beveled edge makes more sense. If on the other hand your tool is marketed for cutting rather than chopping the Zero edge makes more sense.

I voted for leaving it as is and letting the user tailor it to there needs.