Thanks KG...funny you should mention this the very day my Kalamazoo 1x42 arrived AND I had just printed out the thread by Jerry Hossom. I'm going to take the plunge.
I had (have) concerns about over heating and drawing out the temper and also about the angle of the blade, or I should say edge to the belt. On the straight edge, (choil to beginning of belly) it appears fairly simple, but from the beginning of the belly around to the tip seems a little tricky. As I understand it the handle must be raised as you approach the tip or did I mis-read that? In as much as the blade geometry changes as you approach the tip, (i.e. wider toward the spine) it would seem that some correction is needed in the angle of attack from belly to tip. Is it correct to raise the handle as I described?
Thanks again for all the good stuff!
Cool Irony. I wish I had a Kalamazoo delivered .......... a few years ago <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />
Oh well, sometimes using the cheap stuff helps you appreciate the good stuff when you get it. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> - Now all I want is a variable speed KMG or Bader. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />
----------------------
*** Keep in mind guys, I am trying to help with this info, but I am sharing some things based on what "appears" to be the case in my limited experience. I have been tinkering with my cheapo belt sander for a few years now and I am getting the feel for it. But, I am night a professional knife-maker. I just do lots of modifications for my own personal use.
For the best advice, guys like Jerry Hossom are VERY knowledgable with many years of experience and he does well in trying to help others.
Vic and I are both self pro-claimed "hacks". But, I am sure Vic can jump in here and offer some advice as well.
While on the subjuct of advice:
- Use a mask and eye protection!
------------------
If I understand what you are saying and asking and assuming the belt rotation is down where you contact, the yes, you would want to be lifting up on the handle as you go around the belly to the tip.
From my experience, I don't know that you have to have an exact perpendicular angle to the blade, but close is better. What is more important is to have the same consistant motion. When you move the blade around the belt, it is not the end of the world to have an angle or two difference in one part of the blade vs. the other. But, if your movement of the blade around the belt is inconsistant, you will end up with an edge that is visibly not smooth or consistant. It can be made functional. But, the more times you go around trying to equalize the looks and angle of the blade, the more blade edge you will eat up.
AGAIN, you REALLY need to practice on some cheap blade. And ideally practice on a blade size and geometry similar to what you want to sharpen. So, a 3.0" semi-wharnecliffe can be very easy, but also very different from a 5" with lots of belly or a 10" recurve or whatever.
I have generally found the larger blades harder as they require more movement and more ability to stay consistant in your movement over a longer blade. Make sure you have room to move. I have also found that practicing a couple of "dry" movement passes without contact on the belt can help prepare for a fluid consistant movement. - Kind of like a basketball player warming up for a free throw without the ball - ever watch Steve Nash before he shoots a free throw - he practices the motion.
To keep from heating the blade too much - a few tips:
1) The thin edges heat up faster than thick spines. So, especially when sharpening, keep a steady movement and dunk in water after each pass.
2) New fresh belts cut cleaner and faster and seem to generate less heat than older worn belts. (* But, older belts can still have a lot of value.)
3) I am not sure, but it seems to me that coarser grits generate less heat than finer grits (????).
Good luck - practice on cheap blades first!!! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />
.
