I am digging up some of my older posts - much faster than typing more stuff. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
Post from #162096 - Sat Jan 12 2008 02:14 AM
http://www.scrapyardknives.com/ubbthread...true#Post162096 ----------------------
I talked a buddy of mine into getting a VERY fine 1"x42 Delta belt sander that he received a couple of days ago. I just tinkered with it for a few minutes tonight - just starting to show him what his new sweet tool can do. I LOVE his new belt sander WAY more than my old 1"x30".
He doesn't collect knives, but I turned him onto home tinkering and wood-working projects a few years ago. He is finally catching up to me on his tool collection (even passing me <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif" alt="" />). He won't need to borrow too many tools now. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />
But, check this sweet deal out:
Delts 1"x42" FREE Shipping!!!
At $129.00, most might consider it expensive, but once you get one, start using it, get a good selection of belts and get good with it, you realize it is money WELL spent! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />
Here is an email I just sent to him with some good info:
Lee Valley Belts I would probably pick up a variety pack at Lowes or Home Depot. The chain stores will usually have a variety pack with 3 grits that are good for "General" wood use and moderate metal removal. I think: 80, 120, 220 (???) or close.
If it were me, I would be getting the variety pack and grits you can get locally. It won't save you much, but maybe $0.25 - $0.75 or so per belt.
Then "I" would pick up one of each other grit from Lee Valley. - "I" would be picking up 3 leather belts, but for me they would be for putting razor edges on knives.
I have 2 strop compounds to put on leather belts. The 3rd belt would be left dry.
If you have an interest in VERY sharp blades, get at least one or two leather belts and some of this strop compound:
BRKT Strop Compounds @ DLT 40 is VERY coarse and for VERY fast material removal. 80 is still very coarse. 40 - 150 are more for shaping than sanding.
220 starts to polish, but will still shape some. 320 will start to put a satin polish, but at belt sander speeds, it can still shape some.
The leather belts loaded with strop compound really start to put a mirror polish edge.
The tricks with belts on knife edges is to 1st practice a lot on CHEAP steel.
2nd through 7th, etc.:
2) Get a feel for different grits,
3) Proper and different angles,
4) Proper pressure for different steels, angles, materials, etc.,
5) Movement of blade across belt and
6) Feel for heat buildup. *** Don't over-heat blades especially at the edge. The edges will heat faster
7) Use of platen for flat grinds and use of slack belt (no platen) for convex grinds
*** Don't take a "good" or expensive knife out and grind on it to you get a feel for the things above.
With proper belts and grits, "Good" knives can be made to split hairs (Literally)
See:
INFI splitting hairs Alton Brown is actually pretty well respected in the Knife Industry and goes to some of the large knife shows.
This video (Good Eats / Alton Brown) - Alton has some pretty good general advice. - Although, there is more, this is a good start <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
Alton has someone sharpen his knives and discusses Here is a good starter for knife sharpening:
J. Neilson sharpening with Belts - J. Neilson is a fairly respected custom knife maker. He uses 220 grit. Most people use a little finer prior to leather with compound, but as he says, he wants the edge a little "Toothy". "Toothy" would be like "Micro" serrations. They work well for slicing motions (think mini hack-saw). Some material cuts better with slicing motions. Sometimes a fine smooth edge is better - depends.
I don't recommend this following technique, as it is hard to get a decent edge and a little dangerous, but kind-of cool:
Sharpening the hard way - Lots of Skill, but bad edge still <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
After you get the the right belts and the hang of it, you won't want sharpening stones. And you will want to sharpen everything <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
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Oh yeah, that belts sander is great for wood stuff too!!
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Post from same thread: #162097 - Sat Jan 12 2008 02:28 AM
Invest in a good belt sander, some good belts including at least one or two leather belts and some strop compounds. See above! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />
Even one of the cheap $40 - $45 1"x30" belt sanders like Vic, J33ps, myself and a BUNCH of other guys have will get a lot of work done. But, that 42 incher sure is SWEET!
Either way, you will be VERY glad! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />
Go straight to a good system and skip over all the hassles of all the other stuff - stones, oil, water, Lansky, Sharpmaker, etc.
Some of these can get the job done, but a belt system is fast and VERY good if you know how.
Or, I could sell you my EZE sharpening system (
EZE Sharp Also see:
Ian's EZE Sharpening Thread at Swamp Rat forum ). The EZE Sharp system seems to be the best large stone fixed angle system you can buy. ..... But, I would much rather use my belt sander! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbup.gif" alt="" />
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