HUNKY BACON

My maternal grandparents came to America from what is now Slovakia. I grew up eating what my mother learned to cook from her mother. One thing she made was called Hunky Bacon. That name is no longer Politically Correct, but then neither am I. The over sensitive can call it Gypsy Bacon, which is just as authentic.

It’s best made with Hungarian bacon, which is paprika cured and double smoked. If you live near a city that still has ethnic neighborhoods you can probably find it in local markets. You may be able to score it on line. If you can’t, use cured slab bacon.

We always made hunky bacon when we went camping. It's inherently a slow process, taking far more time for the cooking than the eating. This is for sitting around the campfire at day’s end. Talking, telling stories, reminiscing, and slowly cooking your snack. I've seen old photos of a Hungarian herdsman in traditional costume. He was squatting before a fire, bread in hand, toasting a chunk of bacon over the flames. No time clock for him.

Here’s the procedure. Cut a thick slice of sturdy rye bread. Thin slice an onion, or fine dice it. Spread onion to taste on your slice of bread. Don't be niggard. Cut a piece of bacon, about one half by three inches. Leave the rind intact. Slice through the meat almost down to the rind, say every three eighth inches. Poke a sharpened stick or toasting fork through the bacon, as though you were going to roast a marshmallow. If the rind is tough, you may have to pierce it with a knife first. Hold the bacon in the fire. If you keep the right distance, the fat will begin to melt but the bacon won't ignite. If the bacon does start to burn, blow the fire out and continue. A little char will add to the flavor. The rind side of the bacon will curl, and the cut edge will spread out like a cockscomb as the bacon toasts.

Your bread can be sitting on a log, toasting as you work. Or you can hold it in your hand, toasting bread and hand both. Keep touching the bacon to your bread. Each time, you wick off some of the melted bacon grease, flavoring bread and onion both. Continue until the bacon is well smoked and rendered. You want it at least slightly crisped. Do not hurry the process, the slow cooking should be savored as much as the eating.

Finally everything is ready. If you are fastidious, dice the bacon and spread it on the bread in an open faced sandwich. Or drop the bacon onto the bread and fold bread and onion around the meat in a causal sandwich. The manly can take a bite of bread, a nibble of the bacon, and chew them together. To really be traditional, clear your palate occasionally with a shot of Slivovitz. Bourbon will do in a pinch, or even Scotch.

Once you finish, grab more bread, onion, and bacon. Repeat the process. Continue until fire, conversation, ingredients, appetite, or wakefulness is exhausted. Whichever comes first.